July 2009 - Here are some pics from my recent trip to Chamonix.
Chamonix town centre is very impressive on a clear sunny day - its hard to take a bad photo! Took a walk from the campsite up to "Chalet Floria" which is a little cafe perched on the south side of the valley.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/Chamonix?authkey=Gv1sRgCPnWrI2S773MNQ&feat=directlink
The next day, I took the cable car from Chamonix to Aiguelle du Midi which is the view point for Mont Blanc. Perfect weather with views back to the Swiss Alps, down to Italy and of course of Mont Blanc itself, which looks close by but its actually 1000m higher than Aiguelle du Midi. At 3800m, the view point is an incredible feat of 1950's engineering.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/AiguelleDuMidiMontBlanc?authkey=Gv1sRgCPmIrrO7kcGxjwE&feat=directlink
On the way down, you can get off the cable car for a great walk to Mer de Glace("Sea of Ice"). This is a huge glacial valley which runs down into the main Chamonix valley. Impressive views from the snaking path made for a memorable afternoon. The end of the walk is Montnevers, where there's a hotel and another little cable car down to the glacier itself. Decided to save that for another day and took the cog railway back to Chamonix.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/MerDeGlace?authkey=Gv1sRgCKq929OZupK6mwE&feat=directlink
Friday, 7 August 2009
Thursday, 21 May 2009
Koh Phi Phi - island paradise or shanty town?
I wanted to see Phi Phi again. Its beautiful, and known for "The Beach" (a film I've never seen), and some of the more graphic footage from the tsunami.
I remembered a ramshackle collection of shops, eateries and accommodation. Later, the tsunami ripped through TonSai beach. The tragic aftermath should have been an opportunity, to develop the island to its true potential - hence my curiosity to see how things have changed.
Nothing seems to have changed - the same grungy back streets, over-priced accommodation (it took a couple of hot, sweaty hours to find a very average room for double the price of a nice bungalow in Koh Lanta), predictably samey tourist shops, overpriced food, overpriced drinks, overpriced massages, overpriced internet access....the price of popularity.
However, take away the beach bums, the night owls and the profiteers, and its a magical place....the views, from the beach or the mountains, are fabulous.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/KohPhiPhi?feat=directlink
One night was enough though. Did it, didn't bother buying the T-Shirt, moved on, not for me.
I remembered a ramshackle collection of shops, eateries and accommodation. Later, the tsunami ripped through TonSai beach. The tragic aftermath should have been an opportunity, to develop the island to its true potential - hence my curiosity to see how things have changed.
Nothing seems to have changed - the same grungy back streets, over-priced accommodation (it took a couple of hot, sweaty hours to find a very average room for double the price of a nice bungalow in Koh Lanta), predictably samey tourist shops, overpriced food, overpriced drinks, overpriced massages, overpriced internet access....the price of popularity.
However, take away the beach bums, the night owls and the profiteers, and its a magical place....the views, from the beach or the mountains, are fabulous.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/KohPhiPhi?feat=directlink
One night was enough though. Did it, didn't bother buying the T-Shirt, moved on, not for me.
Thailand - Similans paradise
Its a privilege to spend time on a liveaboard in the Similan Islands - nine pretty islands in the Andaman Sea, off the west coast of Thailand.
Our January trip also took us north, to Koh Bon and Koh Tachai, and then to Richelieu Rock, a lone oceanic pinnacle, not far from the Burmese border. All the dive sites have their highlights - its world class. The island bays make for the most scenic mooring spots you could wish for. Most of the islands are uninhabited, and inaccessible, but there are some lovely beaches which you can visit, using the inflatable, or with an energetic swim!
Life on board South Siam's boats takes some adjustment but once you're into the daily routine of early starts (and great sunrises!), eating-diving-sleeping(repeat 4 times), you really, really don't want to leave. Extreme healthy living - unless you get into the apres dive Chang Beer.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/SimilansLifeOnBoard?feat=directlink
Underwater, there's a lot to see - massive granite boulders, rocky ridges, coral bommies, disorientating thermoclines, all manner of swimthroughs, high octane drifts and psychadelic aquarium dives. There's always the expectation of seeing something big swim by, especially further north, but the highlights are generally from lower down the food chain, although we were lucky enough to see some reef sharks and, on the very last dive, an impressive Eagle Ray....no mantas or whale sharks though.
Here's a little sample which illustrates the action, the diversity, colour and variety of the area.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/SimilansUnderwaterHighlights?feat=directlink
Our January trip also took us north, to Koh Bon and Koh Tachai, and then to Richelieu Rock, a lone oceanic pinnacle, not far from the Burmese border. All the dive sites have their highlights - its world class. The island bays make for the most scenic mooring spots you could wish for. Most of the islands are uninhabited, and inaccessible, but there are some lovely beaches which you can visit, using the inflatable, or with an energetic swim!
Life on board South Siam's boats takes some adjustment but once you're into the daily routine of early starts (and great sunrises!), eating-diving-sleeping(repeat 4 times), you really, really don't want to leave. Extreme healthy living - unless you get into the apres dive Chang Beer.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/SimilansLifeOnBoard?feat=directlink
Underwater, there's a lot to see - massive granite boulders, rocky ridges, coral bommies, disorientating thermoclines, all manner of swimthroughs, high octane drifts and psychadelic aquarium dives. There's always the expectation of seeing something big swim by, especially further north, but the highlights are generally from lower down the food chain, although we were lucky enough to see some reef sharks and, on the very last dive, an impressive Eagle Ray....no mantas or whale sharks though.
Here's a little sample which illustrates the action, the diversity, colour and variety of the area.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/SimilansUnderwaterHighlights?feat=directlink
SE Asia - Post Script
Long time no blog!
With time on my hands now, I should fill in some of the gaps from the SE Asia trip.
For starters, there's a previously unreleased snapshot of Koh Lanta here:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/KohLanta?feat=directlink
Koh Lanta was a 3 hour boat trip from Phuket (via Koh Phi Phi), but perhaps 10-15 years behind in terms of tourist development (and prices!). A great place to spend a week, with miles of quiet (& some empty) beaches, verdant mountains, and plenty of good value accommodation and eateries.
Like all developing islands, the roads were pretty dodgy in places - baked mud, with dusty ruts and large rocks - the little Honda step-through coped with everything though!
Aside from the natural features of the island, the main purpose of my visit was to use Koh Lanta as a base for diving Hin Daeng and Hin Muang. http://www.blueplanetdivers.net/hin.htm These underwater pinnacles famously attract a lot of marine life, but they are so far south that they're hard to dive from Phuket or Phi Phi, unless you're prepared to endure a long speedboat journey. Unfortunately, the windy conditions in January meant that our two attempts to get there had to be aborted - the ride was uncomfortable enough, but diving in open ocean conditions would have been too dangerous - a real disappointment. An adventure which will have to wait for another trip to the area.
More on the un-reported wonders of SE Asia soon!
With time on my hands now, I should fill in some of the gaps from the SE Asia trip.
For starters, there's a previously unreleased snapshot of Koh Lanta here:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/KohLanta?feat=directlink
Koh Lanta was a 3 hour boat trip from Phuket (via Koh Phi Phi), but perhaps 10-15 years behind in terms of tourist development (and prices!). A great place to spend a week, with miles of quiet (& some empty) beaches, verdant mountains, and plenty of good value accommodation and eateries.
Like all developing islands, the roads were pretty dodgy in places - baked mud, with dusty ruts and large rocks - the little Honda step-through coped with everything though!
Aside from the natural features of the island, the main purpose of my visit was to use Koh Lanta as a base for diving Hin Daeng and Hin Muang. http://www.blueplanetdivers.net/hin.htm These underwater pinnacles famously attract a lot of marine life, but they are so far south that they're hard to dive from Phuket or Phi Phi, unless you're prepared to endure a long speedboat journey. Unfortunately, the windy conditions in January meant that our two attempts to get there had to be aborted - the ride was uncomfortable enough, but diving in open ocean conditions would have been too dangerous - a real disappointment. An adventure which will have to wait for another trip to the area.
More on the un-reported wonders of SE Asia soon!
Sunday, 1 March 2009
Losing their Marbles
Marble Mountains, Vietnam
This was a day trip, north of Hoi An.
What? Five large chunks of rock (marble) sticking out of an otherwise featureless coastal plain.
Why do tourists go there? Two of the mountains are full of caves, decorated with rock carvings and sculptures. There are also a number of temples and a 360 degree lookout, accessed by a scarily steep concrete staircase. Its a great place to spend a few sweaty hours, climbing steps and wriggling through dark nooks and crannies.
Trouble is, they've made so many marble souvenirs that they're running out of rock so they now import marble from China for making little Buddhas and other such trinkets!
This coastal stretch is known as China Beach, where US forces went for R&R in between combat missions.
Large sections of the seafront are now fenced off for development by international hotel chains.
Pics here......
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/MarbleMountains?feat=directlink
This was a day trip, north of Hoi An.
What? Five large chunks of rock (marble) sticking out of an otherwise featureless coastal plain.
Why do tourists go there? Two of the mountains are full of caves, decorated with rock carvings and sculptures. There are also a number of temples and a 360 degree lookout, accessed by a scarily steep concrete staircase. Its a great place to spend a few sweaty hours, climbing steps and wriggling through dark nooks and crannies.
Trouble is, they've made so many marble souvenirs that they're running out of rock so they now import marble from China for making little Buddhas and other such trinkets!
This coastal stretch is known as China Beach, where US forces went for R&R in between combat missions.
Large sections of the seafront are now fenced off for development by international hotel chains.
Pics here......
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/MarbleMountains?feat=directlink
Saturday, 28 February 2009
Hoi An
8-13 Februry - Hoi An, central Vietnam
Hoi An is a charming port town, dating back several centuries when it was a trading post for Dutch, Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese and other vessels. From the 17th to the 19th century it was one of SE Asia's major ports....hard to imagine today - its such a quaint little place, but the olde worlde atmosphere is well preserved.
Luckily, Hoi An was unaffected by the US war hence many old buildings remain - the old town is UNESCO World Heritage listed.
Motor traffic is banned from the streets during the day - surprisingly (for a country where idiocy underpins the Highway Code) the policy is rigorously enforced - I saw a truncheon wielding "policeman" trying the take the ignition keys from a woman who persisted in trying to negotiate the barrier to get to her market stall!
Arrived on the bus from Hue just in time for the annual lantern festival (first full moon after the lunar new year) - very colourful.
Hoi An is the place to go for good value, quality tailor made clothing - suits, shirts, dresses made in 24-48 hours. Its also great for souvenirs with many art and craft shops, clothing stores etc. Most eye catching were exquisite hand-embroidered Vietnamese scenes - the better ones take months to make and retail for several thousand US dollars. Lovely mementoes if you have the money, and a place to display them at home.
All in all, Hoi An was a top stop - a great place to recuperate from the Hanoi experience, with some nice day trips to local attractions such as the Marble Mountains and My Son, which is Vietnam's equivalent of Angkor Wat (see future blog entries!).
Click here for some photos!
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/HoiAn?feat=directlink
Hoi An is a charming port town, dating back several centuries when it was a trading post for Dutch, Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese and other vessels. From the 17th to the 19th century it was one of SE Asia's major ports....hard to imagine today - its such a quaint little place, but the olde worlde atmosphere is well preserved.
Luckily, Hoi An was unaffected by the US war hence many old buildings remain - the old town is UNESCO World Heritage listed.
Motor traffic is banned from the streets during the day - surprisingly (for a country where idiocy underpins the Highway Code) the policy is rigorously enforced - I saw a truncheon wielding "policeman" trying the take the ignition keys from a woman who persisted in trying to negotiate the barrier to get to her market stall!
Arrived on the bus from Hue just in time for the annual lantern festival (first full moon after the lunar new year) - very colourful.
Hoi An is the place to go for good value, quality tailor made clothing - suits, shirts, dresses made in 24-48 hours. Its also great for souvenirs with many art and craft shops, clothing stores etc. Most eye catching were exquisite hand-embroidered Vietnamese scenes - the better ones take months to make and retail for several thousand US dollars. Lovely mementoes if you have the money, and a place to display them at home.
All in all, Hoi An was a top stop - a great place to recuperate from the Hanoi experience, with some nice day trips to local attractions such as the Marble Mountains and My Son, which is Vietnam's equivalent of Angkor Wat (see future blog entries!).
Click here for some photos!
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/HoiAn?feat=directlink
Monday, 16 February 2009
Diving in Nha Trang
15 Feb
Skipped a few days activity (lovely Hoi An will appear soon!) to report on a dive trip which exceeded expectations.
Nha Trang is touted as the "dive capital" of Vietnam - I wasn't expecting Thailand quality conditions, but a two dive trip with Rainbow Divers proved a bit of an eye opener. Its not a place to see big fish, but there are all sorts of wierd and wonderful little things in amongst the sand, coral and rocks.
7 o'clock departure from the dive shop, and short boat trip to Mun Island, and we were in the water for the first dive by 8.15am.
The sea here is a shade of turquoise .... it was so calm, like jumping into a swimming pool...a cold one...at 23-24degrees, we shivered our way through the second dive. Luckily the underwater highlights took your mind off how chilly it was.
The pictures tell the story - really healthy, colourful hard/soft corals, with some anemones and their feisty Nemos. More banded pipefish than I've ever seen in one place. A large cuttlefish, several frogfish, a dragonet, devil scorpionfish, multicoloured featherstars...the list goes on. The pics are just a taster, and prove that my old Canon Ixus 60 can cut the mustard underwater (Canon WP-DC4 housing)...any limitations are with the photographer!
Watch this space for some stonking underwater photos from the Similans!
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/NhaTrangDiveTrip?feat=directlink
Skipped a few days activity (lovely Hoi An will appear soon!) to report on a dive trip which exceeded expectations.
Nha Trang is touted as the "dive capital" of Vietnam - I wasn't expecting Thailand quality conditions, but a two dive trip with Rainbow Divers proved a bit of an eye opener. Its not a place to see big fish, but there are all sorts of wierd and wonderful little things in amongst the sand, coral and rocks.
7 o'clock departure from the dive shop, and short boat trip to Mun Island, and we were in the water for the first dive by 8.15am.
The sea here is a shade of turquoise .... it was so calm, like jumping into a swimming pool...a cold one...at 23-24degrees, we shivered our way through the second dive. Luckily the underwater highlights took your mind off how chilly it was.
The pictures tell the story - really healthy, colourful hard/soft corals, with some anemones and their feisty Nemos. More banded pipefish than I've ever seen in one place. A large cuttlefish, several frogfish, a dragonet, devil scorpionfish, multicoloured featherstars...the list goes on. The pics are just a taster, and prove that my old Canon Ixus 60 can cut the mustard underwater (Canon WP-DC4 housing)...any limitations are with the photographer!
Watch this space for some stonking underwater photos from the Similans!
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/NhaTrangDiveTrip?feat=directlink
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