Grimsel Pass - driving heaven

11 Sep 08 - This is a brilliant driving road and it deserves a mention here - the name just doesn't do it justice! Its got to be the best short cut ever, to get from Eggishorn in the Goms valley to the Interlaken area.

Approaching from the east, you're not sure whether the zig-zag pattern on the side of the mountain is a road or not...it can't be, can it? Yes, it is!

At the town of Gletsch ("glacier"), you take a left for the Grimsel-pass, or go straight on for the Furka-pass. Both look like a lot of fun, and are awe inspiring feats of construction - these are not dangerous mountain tracks - they're top quality highways, built in improbable places!

More astonishing views from the pass - the end of the Rhone glacier is clearly visible to the north-east(photo), with the Furka-pass to the east (photo).

As if that's not enough, you get to the top for a birds eye view of a hydro electric scheme with a huge reservoir - the Grimselsee (1909m). Its alluvial colouring is unlike anything I've seen on this scale. Great views for the descent into Meiringen.

The Swiss sure know how to complement the natural grandeur of their country with incredible civil engineering projects, whether its roads, tunnels, mountain railways or cable cars!

Its a small country, absolutely packed with jaw dropping spectacles!

King of the Glaciers

11 Sep - Leave Loetschental, heading further east for my first sight of the Grosser Aletschgletscher. 23km long, this is the daddy of alpine glaciers. For something so big, its well hidden. I've noticed from the map that Eggishorn seems like a useful viewpoint.

Park at Fiesch and take the cable car to Bergstation Eggishorn at 2869m.

There are many documented hiking paths but suspended above the slopes, its obvious that this is pretty serious terrain - these paths would make some of my previous experiences in the Alps look pretty tame. Its unforgiving rocky ground, with little greenery.

First glimpse of the glacier - wow - just like the pictures, but more impressive! Unfortunately, there's low cloud, so the classic panorama shot will have to wait for another visit. On a clear day, you can see the full set of alpine peaks from here - a 360 degree vista - that must be amazing.

The peak of Eggishorn is signposted as a 15min walk - its at 2926m. You gotta lose some height first though, and either side of the connecting ridge are precipitous drop offs, a glacier 600m below on one side and ...erm...nothing but more jagged rocks on the other!

Gotta go for it, so strike off down the rocky steps, with one eye on the metal cross which marks the summit - better not to look down too often. Occasional rain drops suggest incoming weather!

The rain becomes heavier. Meet another walker near the summit - she doesn't hang around. Thunder is approaching from the west - you can see the storm crawling along the valley. A 15 min scramble for a good photo suddenly becomes a survival exercise. I take my pics at the top and retreat back down the slippery rocks to a crevice where I shelter as the storm passes directly overhead. Luckily I have my jacket, but my trousers are soaked through by the time I emerge from my hiding place and tentatively scramble back to the cable car station.

A lesson learned today - at these altitudes, things can change in a moment. The shorts and T-shirts brigade you'd find on Helvellyn could quickly become statistics up here!

However, I've seen the prize, the fabulous Aletsch Glacier and sworn that I'll be back to do it justice with the camera, on a day when the sun's shining!

Glacial Inspiration

10 Sep 2008. Take the postal bus from Kippel to Fafleralp.

This is the end of the road - only walkers, cows and marmots beyond this point! Truly astonishing landscape, every glacial feature you ever learned about. Grundsee - crystal clear water over turquoise sediment, Guggisee - the opposite - like a caramel milkshake!

Roaring rivers with dippers looking for their lunch; alpine flowers; tadpoles and tiny frogs; precipitous hillsides reminiscent of the "Last of the Mohicans"; nervous deer; very shy marmots.

At 2000m, the crowning glory is Langgletscher - a living wall of ice - rocks balanced like "penny falls" 100 ft above you - don't get too close! Twin tunnels have somehow bored though the glacier, spewing murky freezing water into the valley below. All around is the debris of thousands of years of freeze/thaw and forces beyond our imagination.

This was a real experience - UNESCO recognise it as such, and the whole area is highly protected - its a very special environment.

Last bus home, a welcome shower and a good meal by the tent before broken sleep under a clear, freezing sky and the tolling bell of Kippel!

Loetschental

9 Sep 2008 - Loetschental is accessed from the road to Brig via a series of dramatic hairpins and tunnels. With perfect Swiss villages and UNESCO protected wilderness, this valley is a well kept secret judging by how few tourists, and souvenir shops there are.

Camping at Kippel is accompanied by a soundtrack of raging glacial torrents and half hourly chimes from bells of the village chapel, yes, all night long!

Cycled to Fafleralp at the head of the valley, 1787m, doubting every moment of the lung bursting ascent and stopping for spiritual guidance on the way (picture). Free wheeling back to Kippel made it worth the effort though!

Sunny days in September means clear skies and cold nights - good for star gazing but chilly in the tent!

1000km to Geneva

Cambridge to Geneva in 1 day, picking up a dozen bottles of champagne in Epernay on the way. Painful queues in Vitry and eternal bends in the Jura - relieved to finally see the lights around Lac Leman....a long long day.