I wanted to see Phi Phi again. Its beautiful, and known for "The Beach" (a film I've never seen), and some of the more graphic footage from the tsunami.
I remembered a ramshackle collection of shops, eateries and accommodation. Later, the tsunami ripped through TonSai beach. The tragic aftermath should have been an opportunity, to develop the island to its true potential - hence my curiosity to see how things have changed.
Nothing seems to have changed - the same grungy back streets, over-priced accommodation (it took a couple of hot, sweaty hours to find a very average room for double the price of a nice bungalow in Koh Lanta), predictably samey tourist shops, overpriced food, overpriced drinks, overpriced massages, overpriced internet access....the price of popularity.
However, take away the beach bums, the night owls and the profiteers, and its a magical place....the views, from the beach or the mountains, are fabulous.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/KohPhiPhi?feat=directlink
One night was enough though. Did it, didn't bother buying the T-Shirt, moved on, not for me.
Thursday, 21 May 2009
Thailand - Similans paradise
Its a privilege to spend time on a liveaboard in the Similan Islands - nine pretty islands in the Andaman Sea, off the west coast of Thailand.
Our January trip also took us north, to Koh Bon and Koh Tachai, and then to Richelieu Rock, a lone oceanic pinnacle, not far from the Burmese border. All the dive sites have their highlights - its world class. The island bays make for the most scenic mooring spots you could wish for. Most of the islands are uninhabited, and inaccessible, but there are some lovely beaches which you can visit, using the inflatable, or with an energetic swim!
Life on board South Siam's boats takes some adjustment but once you're into the daily routine of early starts (and great sunrises!), eating-diving-sleeping(repeat 4 times), you really, really don't want to leave. Extreme healthy living - unless you get into the apres dive Chang Beer.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/SimilansLifeOnBoard?feat=directlink
Underwater, there's a lot to see - massive granite boulders, rocky ridges, coral bommies, disorientating thermoclines, all manner of swimthroughs, high octane drifts and psychadelic aquarium dives. There's always the expectation of seeing something big swim by, especially further north, but the highlights are generally from lower down the food chain, although we were lucky enough to see some reef sharks and, on the very last dive, an impressive Eagle Ray....no mantas or whale sharks though.
Here's a little sample which illustrates the action, the diversity, colour and variety of the area.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/SimilansUnderwaterHighlights?feat=directlink
Our January trip also took us north, to Koh Bon and Koh Tachai, and then to Richelieu Rock, a lone oceanic pinnacle, not far from the Burmese border. All the dive sites have their highlights - its world class. The island bays make for the most scenic mooring spots you could wish for. Most of the islands are uninhabited, and inaccessible, but there are some lovely beaches which you can visit, using the inflatable, or with an energetic swim!
Life on board South Siam's boats takes some adjustment but once you're into the daily routine of early starts (and great sunrises!), eating-diving-sleeping(repeat 4 times), you really, really don't want to leave. Extreme healthy living - unless you get into the apres dive Chang Beer.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/SimilansLifeOnBoard?feat=directlink
Underwater, there's a lot to see - massive granite boulders, rocky ridges, coral bommies, disorientating thermoclines, all manner of swimthroughs, high octane drifts and psychadelic aquarium dives. There's always the expectation of seeing something big swim by, especially further north, but the highlights are generally from lower down the food chain, although we were lucky enough to see some reef sharks and, on the very last dive, an impressive Eagle Ray....no mantas or whale sharks though.
Here's a little sample which illustrates the action, the diversity, colour and variety of the area.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/SimilansUnderwaterHighlights?feat=directlink
SE Asia - Post Script
Long time no blog!
With time on my hands now, I should fill in some of the gaps from the SE Asia trip.
For starters, there's a previously unreleased snapshot of Koh Lanta here:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/KohLanta?feat=directlink
Koh Lanta was a 3 hour boat trip from Phuket (via Koh Phi Phi), but perhaps 10-15 years behind in terms of tourist development (and prices!). A great place to spend a week, with miles of quiet (& some empty) beaches, verdant mountains, and plenty of good value accommodation and eateries.
Like all developing islands, the roads were pretty dodgy in places - baked mud, with dusty ruts and large rocks - the little Honda step-through coped with everything though!
Aside from the natural features of the island, the main purpose of my visit was to use Koh Lanta as a base for diving Hin Daeng and Hin Muang. http://www.blueplanetdivers.net/hin.htm These underwater pinnacles famously attract a lot of marine life, but they are so far south that they're hard to dive from Phuket or Phi Phi, unless you're prepared to endure a long speedboat journey. Unfortunately, the windy conditions in January meant that our two attempts to get there had to be aborted - the ride was uncomfortable enough, but diving in open ocean conditions would have been too dangerous - a real disappointment. An adventure which will have to wait for another trip to the area.
More on the un-reported wonders of SE Asia soon!
With time on my hands now, I should fill in some of the gaps from the SE Asia trip.
For starters, there's a previously unreleased snapshot of Koh Lanta here:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/KohLanta?feat=directlink
Koh Lanta was a 3 hour boat trip from Phuket (via Koh Phi Phi), but perhaps 10-15 years behind in terms of tourist development (and prices!). A great place to spend a week, with miles of quiet (& some empty) beaches, verdant mountains, and plenty of good value accommodation and eateries.
Like all developing islands, the roads were pretty dodgy in places - baked mud, with dusty ruts and large rocks - the little Honda step-through coped with everything though!
Aside from the natural features of the island, the main purpose of my visit was to use Koh Lanta as a base for diving Hin Daeng and Hin Muang. http://www.blueplanetdivers.net/hin.htm These underwater pinnacles famously attract a lot of marine life, but they are so far south that they're hard to dive from Phuket or Phi Phi, unless you're prepared to endure a long speedboat journey. Unfortunately, the windy conditions in January meant that our two attempts to get there had to be aborted - the ride was uncomfortable enough, but diving in open ocean conditions would have been too dangerous - a real disappointment. An adventure which will have to wait for another trip to the area.
More on the un-reported wonders of SE Asia soon!
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