July 2009 - Here are some pics from my recent trip to Chamonix.
Chamonix town centre is very impressive on a clear sunny day - its hard to take a bad photo! Took a walk from the campsite up to "Chalet Floria" which is a little cafe perched on the south side of the valley.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/Chamonix?authkey=Gv1sRgCPnWrI2S773MNQ&feat=directlink
The next day, I took the cable car from Chamonix to Aiguelle du Midi which is the view point for Mont Blanc. Perfect weather with views back to the Swiss Alps, down to Italy and of course of Mont Blanc itself, which looks close by but its actually 1000m higher than Aiguelle du Midi. At 3800m, the view point is an incredible feat of 1950's engineering.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/AiguelleDuMidiMontBlanc?authkey=Gv1sRgCPmIrrO7kcGxjwE&feat=directlink
On the way down, you can get off the cable car for a great walk to Mer de Glace("Sea of Ice"). This is a huge glacial valley which runs down into the main Chamonix valley. Impressive views from the snaking path made for a memorable afternoon. The end of the walk is Montnevers, where there's a hotel and another little cable car down to the glacier itself. Decided to save that for another day and took the cog railway back to Chamonix.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/MerDeGlace?authkey=Gv1sRgCKq929OZupK6mwE&feat=directlink
Friday, 7 August 2009
Thursday, 21 May 2009
Koh Phi Phi - island paradise or shanty town?
I wanted to see Phi Phi again. Its beautiful, and known for "The Beach" (a film I've never seen), and some of the more graphic footage from the tsunami.
I remembered a ramshackle collection of shops, eateries and accommodation. Later, the tsunami ripped through TonSai beach. The tragic aftermath should have been an opportunity, to develop the island to its true potential - hence my curiosity to see how things have changed.
Nothing seems to have changed - the same grungy back streets, over-priced accommodation (it took a couple of hot, sweaty hours to find a very average room for double the price of a nice bungalow in Koh Lanta), predictably samey tourist shops, overpriced food, overpriced drinks, overpriced massages, overpriced internet access....the price of popularity.
However, take away the beach bums, the night owls and the profiteers, and its a magical place....the views, from the beach or the mountains, are fabulous.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/KohPhiPhi?feat=directlink
One night was enough though. Did it, didn't bother buying the T-Shirt, moved on, not for me.
I remembered a ramshackle collection of shops, eateries and accommodation. Later, the tsunami ripped through TonSai beach. The tragic aftermath should have been an opportunity, to develop the island to its true potential - hence my curiosity to see how things have changed.
Nothing seems to have changed - the same grungy back streets, over-priced accommodation (it took a couple of hot, sweaty hours to find a very average room for double the price of a nice bungalow in Koh Lanta), predictably samey tourist shops, overpriced food, overpriced drinks, overpriced massages, overpriced internet access....the price of popularity.
However, take away the beach bums, the night owls and the profiteers, and its a magical place....the views, from the beach or the mountains, are fabulous.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/KohPhiPhi?feat=directlink
One night was enough though. Did it, didn't bother buying the T-Shirt, moved on, not for me.
Thailand - Similans paradise
Its a privilege to spend time on a liveaboard in the Similan Islands - nine pretty islands in the Andaman Sea, off the west coast of Thailand.
Our January trip also took us north, to Koh Bon and Koh Tachai, and then to Richelieu Rock, a lone oceanic pinnacle, not far from the Burmese border. All the dive sites have their highlights - its world class. The island bays make for the most scenic mooring spots you could wish for. Most of the islands are uninhabited, and inaccessible, but there are some lovely beaches which you can visit, using the inflatable, or with an energetic swim!
Life on board South Siam's boats takes some adjustment but once you're into the daily routine of early starts (and great sunrises!), eating-diving-sleeping(repeat 4 times), you really, really don't want to leave. Extreme healthy living - unless you get into the apres dive Chang Beer.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/SimilansLifeOnBoard?feat=directlink
Underwater, there's a lot to see - massive granite boulders, rocky ridges, coral bommies, disorientating thermoclines, all manner of swimthroughs, high octane drifts and psychadelic aquarium dives. There's always the expectation of seeing something big swim by, especially further north, but the highlights are generally from lower down the food chain, although we were lucky enough to see some reef sharks and, on the very last dive, an impressive Eagle Ray....no mantas or whale sharks though.
Here's a little sample which illustrates the action, the diversity, colour and variety of the area.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/SimilansUnderwaterHighlights?feat=directlink
Our January trip also took us north, to Koh Bon and Koh Tachai, and then to Richelieu Rock, a lone oceanic pinnacle, not far from the Burmese border. All the dive sites have their highlights - its world class. The island bays make for the most scenic mooring spots you could wish for. Most of the islands are uninhabited, and inaccessible, but there are some lovely beaches which you can visit, using the inflatable, or with an energetic swim!
Life on board South Siam's boats takes some adjustment but once you're into the daily routine of early starts (and great sunrises!), eating-diving-sleeping(repeat 4 times), you really, really don't want to leave. Extreme healthy living - unless you get into the apres dive Chang Beer.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/SimilansLifeOnBoard?feat=directlink
Underwater, there's a lot to see - massive granite boulders, rocky ridges, coral bommies, disorientating thermoclines, all manner of swimthroughs, high octane drifts and psychadelic aquarium dives. There's always the expectation of seeing something big swim by, especially further north, but the highlights are generally from lower down the food chain, although we were lucky enough to see some reef sharks and, on the very last dive, an impressive Eagle Ray....no mantas or whale sharks though.
Here's a little sample which illustrates the action, the diversity, colour and variety of the area.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/SimilansUnderwaterHighlights?feat=directlink
SE Asia - Post Script
Long time no blog!
With time on my hands now, I should fill in some of the gaps from the SE Asia trip.
For starters, there's a previously unreleased snapshot of Koh Lanta here:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/KohLanta?feat=directlink
Koh Lanta was a 3 hour boat trip from Phuket (via Koh Phi Phi), but perhaps 10-15 years behind in terms of tourist development (and prices!). A great place to spend a week, with miles of quiet (& some empty) beaches, verdant mountains, and plenty of good value accommodation and eateries.
Like all developing islands, the roads were pretty dodgy in places - baked mud, with dusty ruts and large rocks - the little Honda step-through coped with everything though!
Aside from the natural features of the island, the main purpose of my visit was to use Koh Lanta as a base for diving Hin Daeng and Hin Muang. http://www.blueplanetdivers.net/hin.htm These underwater pinnacles famously attract a lot of marine life, but they are so far south that they're hard to dive from Phuket or Phi Phi, unless you're prepared to endure a long speedboat journey. Unfortunately, the windy conditions in January meant that our two attempts to get there had to be aborted - the ride was uncomfortable enough, but diving in open ocean conditions would have been too dangerous - a real disappointment. An adventure which will have to wait for another trip to the area.
More on the un-reported wonders of SE Asia soon!
With time on my hands now, I should fill in some of the gaps from the SE Asia trip.
For starters, there's a previously unreleased snapshot of Koh Lanta here:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/scuba50/KohLanta?feat=directlink
Koh Lanta was a 3 hour boat trip from Phuket (via Koh Phi Phi), but perhaps 10-15 years behind in terms of tourist development (and prices!). A great place to spend a week, with miles of quiet (& some empty) beaches, verdant mountains, and plenty of good value accommodation and eateries.
Like all developing islands, the roads were pretty dodgy in places - baked mud, with dusty ruts and large rocks - the little Honda step-through coped with everything though!
Aside from the natural features of the island, the main purpose of my visit was to use Koh Lanta as a base for diving Hin Daeng and Hin Muang. http://www.blueplanetdivers.net/hin.htm These underwater pinnacles famously attract a lot of marine life, but they are so far south that they're hard to dive from Phuket or Phi Phi, unless you're prepared to endure a long speedboat journey. Unfortunately, the windy conditions in January meant that our two attempts to get there had to be aborted - the ride was uncomfortable enough, but diving in open ocean conditions would have been too dangerous - a real disappointment. An adventure which will have to wait for another trip to the area.
More on the un-reported wonders of SE Asia soon!
Sunday, 1 March 2009
Losing their Marbles
Marble Mountains, Vietnam
This was a day trip, north of Hoi An.
What? Five large chunks of rock (marble) sticking out of an otherwise featureless coastal plain.
Why do tourists go there? Two of the mountains are full of caves, decorated with rock carvings and sculptures. There are also a number of temples and a 360 degree lookout, accessed by a scarily steep concrete staircase. Its a great place to spend a few sweaty hours, climbing steps and wriggling through dark nooks and crannies.
Trouble is, they've made so many marble souvenirs that they're running out of rock so they now import marble from China for making little Buddhas and other such trinkets!
This coastal stretch is known as China Beach, where US forces went for R&R in between combat missions.
Large sections of the seafront are now fenced off for development by international hotel chains.
Pics here......
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/MarbleMountains?feat=directlink
This was a day trip, north of Hoi An.
What? Five large chunks of rock (marble) sticking out of an otherwise featureless coastal plain.
Why do tourists go there? Two of the mountains are full of caves, decorated with rock carvings and sculptures. There are also a number of temples and a 360 degree lookout, accessed by a scarily steep concrete staircase. Its a great place to spend a few sweaty hours, climbing steps and wriggling through dark nooks and crannies.
Trouble is, they've made so many marble souvenirs that they're running out of rock so they now import marble from China for making little Buddhas and other such trinkets!
This coastal stretch is known as China Beach, where US forces went for R&R in between combat missions.
Large sections of the seafront are now fenced off for development by international hotel chains.
Pics here......
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/MarbleMountains?feat=directlink
Saturday, 28 February 2009
Hoi An
8-13 Februry - Hoi An, central Vietnam
Hoi An is a charming port town, dating back several centuries when it was a trading post for Dutch, Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese and other vessels. From the 17th to the 19th century it was one of SE Asia's major ports....hard to imagine today - its such a quaint little place, but the olde worlde atmosphere is well preserved.
Luckily, Hoi An was unaffected by the US war hence many old buildings remain - the old town is UNESCO World Heritage listed.
Motor traffic is banned from the streets during the day - surprisingly (for a country where idiocy underpins the Highway Code) the policy is rigorously enforced - I saw a truncheon wielding "policeman" trying the take the ignition keys from a woman who persisted in trying to negotiate the barrier to get to her market stall!
Arrived on the bus from Hue just in time for the annual lantern festival (first full moon after the lunar new year) - very colourful.
Hoi An is the place to go for good value, quality tailor made clothing - suits, shirts, dresses made in 24-48 hours. Its also great for souvenirs with many art and craft shops, clothing stores etc. Most eye catching were exquisite hand-embroidered Vietnamese scenes - the better ones take months to make and retail for several thousand US dollars. Lovely mementoes if you have the money, and a place to display them at home.
All in all, Hoi An was a top stop - a great place to recuperate from the Hanoi experience, with some nice day trips to local attractions such as the Marble Mountains and My Son, which is Vietnam's equivalent of Angkor Wat (see future blog entries!).
Click here for some photos!
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/HoiAn?feat=directlink
Hoi An is a charming port town, dating back several centuries when it was a trading post for Dutch, Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese and other vessels. From the 17th to the 19th century it was one of SE Asia's major ports....hard to imagine today - its such a quaint little place, but the olde worlde atmosphere is well preserved.
Luckily, Hoi An was unaffected by the US war hence many old buildings remain - the old town is UNESCO World Heritage listed.
Motor traffic is banned from the streets during the day - surprisingly (for a country where idiocy underpins the Highway Code) the policy is rigorously enforced - I saw a truncheon wielding "policeman" trying the take the ignition keys from a woman who persisted in trying to negotiate the barrier to get to her market stall!
Arrived on the bus from Hue just in time for the annual lantern festival (first full moon after the lunar new year) - very colourful.
Hoi An is the place to go for good value, quality tailor made clothing - suits, shirts, dresses made in 24-48 hours. Its also great for souvenirs with many art and craft shops, clothing stores etc. Most eye catching were exquisite hand-embroidered Vietnamese scenes - the better ones take months to make and retail for several thousand US dollars. Lovely mementoes if you have the money, and a place to display them at home.
All in all, Hoi An was a top stop - a great place to recuperate from the Hanoi experience, with some nice day trips to local attractions such as the Marble Mountains and My Son, which is Vietnam's equivalent of Angkor Wat (see future blog entries!).
Click here for some photos!
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/HoiAn?feat=directlink
Monday, 16 February 2009
Diving in Nha Trang
15 Feb
Skipped a few days activity (lovely Hoi An will appear soon!) to report on a dive trip which exceeded expectations.
Nha Trang is touted as the "dive capital" of Vietnam - I wasn't expecting Thailand quality conditions, but a two dive trip with Rainbow Divers proved a bit of an eye opener. Its not a place to see big fish, but there are all sorts of wierd and wonderful little things in amongst the sand, coral and rocks.
7 o'clock departure from the dive shop, and short boat trip to Mun Island, and we were in the water for the first dive by 8.15am.
The sea here is a shade of turquoise .... it was so calm, like jumping into a swimming pool...a cold one...at 23-24degrees, we shivered our way through the second dive. Luckily the underwater highlights took your mind off how chilly it was.
The pictures tell the story - really healthy, colourful hard/soft corals, with some anemones and their feisty Nemos. More banded pipefish than I've ever seen in one place. A large cuttlefish, several frogfish, a dragonet, devil scorpionfish, multicoloured featherstars...the list goes on. The pics are just a taster, and prove that my old Canon Ixus 60 can cut the mustard underwater (Canon WP-DC4 housing)...any limitations are with the photographer!
Watch this space for some stonking underwater photos from the Similans!
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/NhaTrangDiveTrip?feat=directlink
Skipped a few days activity (lovely Hoi An will appear soon!) to report on a dive trip which exceeded expectations.
Nha Trang is touted as the "dive capital" of Vietnam - I wasn't expecting Thailand quality conditions, but a two dive trip with Rainbow Divers proved a bit of an eye opener. Its not a place to see big fish, but there are all sorts of wierd and wonderful little things in amongst the sand, coral and rocks.
7 o'clock departure from the dive shop, and short boat trip to Mun Island, and we were in the water for the first dive by 8.15am.
The sea here is a shade of turquoise .... it was so calm, like jumping into a swimming pool...a cold one...at 23-24degrees, we shivered our way through the second dive. Luckily the underwater highlights took your mind off how chilly it was.
The pictures tell the story - really healthy, colourful hard/soft corals, with some anemones and their feisty Nemos. More banded pipefish than I've ever seen in one place. A large cuttlefish, several frogfish, a dragonet, devil scorpionfish, multicoloured featherstars...the list goes on. The pics are just a taster, and prove that my old Canon Ixus 60 can cut the mustard underwater (Canon WP-DC4 housing)...any limitations are with the photographer!
Watch this space for some stonking underwater photos from the Similans!
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/NhaTrangDiveTrip?feat=directlink
Saturday, 14 February 2009
Hue - the imperial capital
6-8 Feb
Hue
Capital of Vietnam from 1802 to 1945, before the communist era, Hue has lots to offer the camera totting tourist! The Citadel, a walled city on the banks of the Perfume River, was home to 13 emperors of the Nguyen dynasty. Sadly, the American war saw a lot of fighting here and many of the grand old buildings were obliterated by US bombs. There’s a huge UNESCO restoration programme underway amongst the ruins, but the remaining buildings and their grand interiors make for a good half day’s exploration.
What was quite astonishing is that amongst the foundations of the damaged buildings there are areas of intact floor tiling and ornate stonework which are overgrown - visitors can trample all over them. Priceless historical artifacts in any other country; here, they can only do so much and what‘s not work in progress is just left as it is until someone gets round to caring for it.
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/Hue?feat=directlink
Two Wheeled Tour around Hue
Whilst the emperors went about their daily business in the Citadel, they also planned for their after life, designed grand tomb complexes in the countryside surrounding Hue. One of the highlights of my trip was a half day ”motorbike tour” around some of these tombs, and other sites of interest.
On the back of a Honda 125, I was able to take plenty of photos on the move. We started off with a ride through some of the local villages - a great chance to see peasant life close up, workers in the paddy fields, tending their animals and other crops (yes, there are crops other than rice!).
Riding along dirt tracks, partly finished freeways, between the trees to a hilltop vantage point…all stuff you’re not really supposed to do on moped…it was a real adventure.
We arrived at a local temple in time to see the monks and some local Buddhist worshippers chanting their rhythmic daily prayers - I felt a bit intrusive but they don’t seem to care about onlookers.
The tomb of Emperor Tu Duc (1848-83) is a complex of buildings inside a huge walled enclosure. Really impressive, and all pretty much intact, although apparenty he wasn’t actually buried there for fear of grave robbers. The 200 servants who took him to his final resting place were all beheaded so that the secret would never get out!! Many tourists here, but plenty of opportunity to look around and get a feel for the place.
Back to the city, and we visited the Thien Mu pagoda, another splendid example of a working place of worship.
A final circuit of the Citadel for a photo in front of Ho Chi Minh's picture, and we were back to the start - a brilliant way to spend a morning in Hue!
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/HueMotorbikeTour?feat=directlink
Hue
Capital of Vietnam from 1802 to 1945, before the communist era, Hue has lots to offer the camera totting tourist! The Citadel, a walled city on the banks of the Perfume River, was home to 13 emperors of the Nguyen dynasty. Sadly, the American war saw a lot of fighting here and many of the grand old buildings were obliterated by US bombs. There’s a huge UNESCO restoration programme underway amongst the ruins, but the remaining buildings and their grand interiors make for a good half day’s exploration.
What was quite astonishing is that amongst the foundations of the damaged buildings there are areas of intact floor tiling and ornate stonework which are overgrown - visitors can trample all over them. Priceless historical artifacts in any other country; here, they can only do so much and what‘s not work in progress is just left as it is until someone gets round to caring for it.
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/Hue?feat=directlink
Two Wheeled Tour around Hue
Whilst the emperors went about their daily business in the Citadel, they also planned for their after life, designed grand tomb complexes in the countryside surrounding Hue. One of the highlights of my trip was a half day ”motorbike tour” around some of these tombs, and other sites of interest.
On the back of a Honda 125, I was able to take plenty of photos on the move. We started off with a ride through some of the local villages - a great chance to see peasant life close up, workers in the paddy fields, tending their animals and other crops (yes, there are crops other than rice!).
Riding along dirt tracks, partly finished freeways, between the trees to a hilltop vantage point…all stuff you’re not really supposed to do on moped…it was a real adventure.
We arrived at a local temple in time to see the monks and some local Buddhist worshippers chanting their rhythmic daily prayers - I felt a bit intrusive but they don’t seem to care about onlookers.
The tomb of Emperor Tu Duc (1848-83) is a complex of buildings inside a huge walled enclosure. Really impressive, and all pretty much intact, although apparenty he wasn’t actually buried there for fear of grave robbers. The 200 servants who took him to his final resting place were all beheaded so that the secret would never get out!! Many tourists here, but plenty of opportunity to look around and get a feel for the place.
Back to the city, and we visited the Thien Mu pagoda, another splendid example of a working place of worship.
A final circuit of the Citadel for a photo in front of Ho Chi Minh's picture, and we were back to the start - a brilliant way to spend a morning in Hue!
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/HueMotorbikeTour?feat=directlink
Tuesday, 10 February 2009
Night train from Hanoi
5-6Feb
Overnight train from Hanoi, to Hue in mid-Vietnam. A real Michael Palin moment!
On the Reunification Express, which runs from Hanoi to Saigon in 36 hours, sleeper compartments each have 4 "soft" beds. Its cheap (£25), so you can't expect the Orient Express, but the bunks are functional enough; there's aircon, a flushing loo at the end of the carriage and three stainless steel handbasins so you can brush your teeth shoulder to shoulder with your new found friends.
30 minutes before departure and the westerners are anxiously loitering around the carriage, wondering who else will turn up to occupy their precious space. Whilst the train was supposedly full, all the bottom bunks appeared to be unallocated, except in one compartment where there was a family of about 15 locals! We were expecting the same, but the train pulled away at 11pm precisely and we had the luxury of 2 people per compartment.
The train doesn't seem to run faster than around 50kph, so progress to Hue, 600km to the south was steady, if nothing else. Its a single track, so approaching trains have to wait in sidings for Reunification Express to pass! There were couple of spine jarring moments when it crossed the points but other than that, the whole experience was pretty painless.
We arrived in Hue, Vietnam's old imperial city, at 11am, refreshed and ready for an afternoon of hard tourist action!
The squatting bloke in the picture was one of several who refill the train with fresh water at major stops. They plug in their hoses, squat a while, wait for a whistle to blow, then remove the hose again before the train pulls away - there's work on the railways.....
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/ReunificationExpress?feat=directlink
Overnight train from Hanoi, to Hue in mid-Vietnam. A real Michael Palin moment!
On the Reunification Express, which runs from Hanoi to Saigon in 36 hours, sleeper compartments each have 4 "soft" beds. Its cheap (£25), so you can't expect the Orient Express, but the bunks are functional enough; there's aircon, a flushing loo at the end of the carriage and three stainless steel handbasins so you can brush your teeth shoulder to shoulder with your new found friends.
30 minutes before departure and the westerners are anxiously loitering around the carriage, wondering who else will turn up to occupy their precious space. Whilst the train was supposedly full, all the bottom bunks appeared to be unallocated, except in one compartment where there was a family of about 15 locals! We were expecting the same, but the train pulled away at 11pm precisely and we had the luxury of 2 people per compartment.
The train doesn't seem to run faster than around 50kph, so progress to Hue, 600km to the south was steady, if nothing else. Its a single track, so approaching trains have to wait in sidings for Reunification Express to pass! There were couple of spine jarring moments when it crossed the points but other than that, the whole experience was pretty painless.
We arrived in Hue, Vietnam's old imperial city, at 11am, refreshed and ready for an afternoon of hard tourist action!
The squatting bloke in the picture was one of several who refill the train with fresh water at major stops. They plug in their hoses, squat a while, wait for a whistle to blow, then remove the hose again before the train pulls away - there's work on the railways.....
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/ReunificationExpress?feat=directlink
Friday, 6 February 2009
Halong Bay
4-5 Feb
Halong Bay is a four hour drive to the east of Hanoi, and known for its incredible marine landscape - 3000 limestone islands jutting out of the emerald green waters of the Gulf of Tonkin. The local climate means that this geological wonderland is often shrouded by mist which adds to the visual impact. Some of the islands have incredible cave systems too.
I did an overnight trip to Halong Bay, organised by the Kangaroo Cafe (the only western run travel business in Hanoi). They arrange your accommodation on board a beautiful wooden junk, with great food, comfortable cabins and outdoor seating for you to enjoy the scenery. There were 17 guests in our trip, mostly Brits and Aussies so there was plenty of lively discussion and swapping of travellers' tales.
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/HalongBayJunk?feat=directlink
The drive from Hanoi was predictably entertaining - every possible luggage combination on little motorcycles (vegetables, animals, boxes, people etc), a truck doing a 3-point turn back onto the entry sliproad of the "motorway". On the hard shoulder you see ladies selling fresh baguettes and blokes just sitting around watching the traffic.
We also saw a coolbox fall off the back of a bike, spilling its contents of pig meat, innards and bones onto the dirty tarmac...the rider set about scooping it back into the box...yummy!
It was also a great opportunity to see people at work in the fields, planting rice and tending their crops. There was also some industry - brickworks, colieries, a power station and, near Hanoi, some more modern multi-national factories.
Once underway, we cruised past the islands of Halong Bay which are fantastic, and very similar to those I saw in southern Thailand. The thing about Halong is the sheer number of islands, and the fact that they're relatively untouristed.
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/HalongBayScenery?feat=directlink
We moored off one of the islands and visited "Amazing Cave", which has 3 huge chambers. Its like a set from a Disney film. Unfortunately, most of the stalagmites and stalactites have been removed years ago by uneducated souvenir hunters, but the impact of this underground wonderland is still quite astonishing....far bigger than any of the caves I saw in Australia.
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/HalongBayCaves?feat=directlink
On day two, after a peaceful night's sleep on the boat, and an early breakfast, we were off to Titop Island (named after a Russian cosmonaut who came here with Ho Chi Minh) for a hike up 400 steps to the viewpoint. The island also has a nice little sandy beach, although in February its a little chilly for bathing!
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/HalongBayTitopIsland?feat=directlink
Halong Bay is a four hour drive to the east of Hanoi, and known for its incredible marine landscape - 3000 limestone islands jutting out of the emerald green waters of the Gulf of Tonkin. The local climate means that this geological wonderland is often shrouded by mist which adds to the visual impact. Some of the islands have incredible cave systems too.
I did an overnight trip to Halong Bay, organised by the Kangaroo Cafe (the only western run travel business in Hanoi). They arrange your accommodation on board a beautiful wooden junk, with great food, comfortable cabins and outdoor seating for you to enjoy the scenery. There were 17 guests in our trip, mostly Brits and Aussies so there was plenty of lively discussion and swapping of travellers' tales.
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/HalongBayJunk?feat=directlink
The drive from Hanoi was predictably entertaining - every possible luggage combination on little motorcycles (vegetables, animals, boxes, people etc), a truck doing a 3-point turn back onto the entry sliproad of the "motorway". On the hard shoulder you see ladies selling fresh baguettes and blokes just sitting around watching the traffic.
We also saw a coolbox fall off the back of a bike, spilling its contents of pig meat, innards and bones onto the dirty tarmac...the rider set about scooping it back into the box...yummy!
It was also a great opportunity to see people at work in the fields, planting rice and tending their crops. There was also some industry - brickworks, colieries, a power station and, near Hanoi, some more modern multi-national factories.
Once underway, we cruised past the islands of Halong Bay which are fantastic, and very similar to those I saw in southern Thailand. The thing about Halong is the sheer number of islands, and the fact that they're relatively untouristed.
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/HalongBayScenery?feat=directlink
We moored off one of the islands and visited "Amazing Cave", which has 3 huge chambers. Its like a set from a Disney film. Unfortunately, most of the stalagmites and stalactites have been removed years ago by uneducated souvenir hunters, but the impact of this underground wonderland is still quite astonishing....far bigger than any of the caves I saw in Australia.
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/HalongBayCaves?feat=directlink
On day two, after a peaceful night's sleep on the boat, and an early breakfast, we were off to Titop Island (named after a Russian cosmonaut who came here with Ho Chi Minh) for a hike up 400 steps to the viewpoint. The island also has a nice little sandy beach, although in February its a little chilly for bathing!
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/HalongBayTitopIsland?feat=directlink
Tuesday, 3 February 2009
Hanoi - old and new
3 Feb
Walked to DongXuan market, also in the Old Quarter - the streets around the market are crammed with people selling and preparing all sorts of food.
The market itself has a real mix of stuff - dried foods, stationery, clothing etc etc
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/DongXuanMarket?feat=directlink
Later on, had a look around the newer parts of the city - quite a contrast, but still a million miles from Hong Kong or Taipei. Still didn't find a 7 Eleven - maybe because its an American institution?! In fact, come to think of it, the only fast food chain I noticed anywhere was KFC.
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/NewHanoi?feat=directlink
Walked to DongXuan market, also in the Old Quarter - the streets around the market are crammed with people selling and preparing all sorts of food.
The market itself has a real mix of stuff - dried foods, stationery, clothing etc etc
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/DongXuanMarket?feat=directlink
Later on, had a look around the newer parts of the city - quite a contrast, but still a million miles from Hong Kong or Taipei. Still didn't find a 7 Eleven - maybe because its an American institution?! In fact, come to think of it, the only fast food chain I noticed anywhere was KFC.
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/NewHanoi?feat=directlink
Monday, 2 February 2009
Life in Hanoi
2 Jan
A few shots of real people, doing what they can to make a living, plus my visit to the ancient Temple of Literature where the scrum to get a 20p ticket would make you think Madonna was on stage. It helps to be a foot taller than the rest of the crowd!
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/LifeInHanoi?feat=directlink
A few shots of real people, doing what they can to make a living, plus my visit to the ancient Temple of Literature where the scrum to get a 20p ticket would make you think Madonna was on stage. It helps to be a foot taller than the rest of the crowd!
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/LifeInHanoi?feat=directlink
Blokes in uniform
A footnote to this little tale...a regional TV article said the Thai security sector is booming - companies hiring personnel to protect their assets - interviewed one dorkish looking bloke..."I used to be a driver, but then I became a security guard...and its great" or words to that effect. Having seen the state of Thai driving, these guys are probably about as useful as traffic cones in Hanoi.
P
Not entirely unexpected, but there are blokes in something resembling military uniform all over the place here! With the exception of the guards at government installations, most of them look like they picked up their outfit at the local army surplus store - scruffy, skinny little geezers with apparently nothing to do other than hang around on street corners. Not sure if they're for real, or just extras from a local theatre production.
On the same theme I noticed a much more visible security presence in Thailand, particularly in Bangkok - police everywhere, obviously on the look out for dissenters. Pity they can't be given traffic management duties!
In Phuket, it was more a case of give a bloke a "security" uniform and a whistle and he has the power to stop the traffic whenever he pleases - drives you mad, especially when added to all the other daily irritations!
P
Not entirely unexpected, but there are blokes in something resembling military uniform all over the place here! With the exception of the guards at government installations, most of them look like they picked up their outfit at the local army surplus store - scruffy, skinny little geezers with apparently nothing to do other than hang around on street corners. Not sure if they're for real, or just extras from a local theatre production.
On the same theme I noticed a much more visible security presence in Thailand, particularly in Bangkok - police everywhere, obviously on the look out for dissenters. Pity they can't be given traffic management duties!
In Phuket, it was more a case of give a bloke a "security" uniform and a whistle and he has the power to stop the traffic whenever he pleases - drives you mad, especially when added to all the other daily irritations!
Ho Chi Minh's revenge
2 Feb
Over exuberant eating in my first few hours in Hanoi was a mistake - it was probably the crab soup - should have known better, but the outcome was more time spent in bed (and the bathroom), rather than at the other city sights.
Anyway, still made it to Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum, on the back of an old boy's motorbike. "Uncle Ho" lies in state for public viewing, when he's not being carefully re-embalmed in an annual trip to Russia.
After passing through security checks, you join what is probably the most orderly, respectful queue in Asia. Two by two, the people are shepherded into the mausoleum to shuffle around the glass cabinet. If you're caught with your hands in your pockets, you get a tap on the shoulder from one of the many guards...respect is the order of the moment!
HCM is very much the national hero in these parts. Liberation from French and then American interference clearly set him up for immortality.
Interestingly, many of the temples here relate to national heroes from earlier times, and they're the focus of many of the peoples' worship, with rituals which look (to me) pretty similar to those practised in Buddhist temples in Thailand.
In the area surrounding the mausoleum there are a number of other buildings of interest...difficult to interpret the meaning of much of this stuff...the English transcripts aren't always helpful but the architecture and symbolism is interesting.
Click here for some pics (cameras not allowed in the mausoleum)....
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/HoChiMinh?feat=directlink
Over exuberant eating in my first few hours in Hanoi was a mistake - it was probably the crab soup - should have known better, but the outcome was more time spent in bed (and the bathroom), rather than at the other city sights.
Anyway, still made it to Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum, on the back of an old boy's motorbike. "Uncle Ho" lies in state for public viewing, when he's not being carefully re-embalmed in an annual trip to Russia.
After passing through security checks, you join what is probably the most orderly, respectful queue in Asia. Two by two, the people are shepherded into the mausoleum to shuffle around the glass cabinet. If you're caught with your hands in your pockets, you get a tap on the shoulder from one of the many guards...respect is the order of the moment!
HCM is very much the national hero in these parts. Liberation from French and then American interference clearly set him up for immortality.
Interestingly, many of the temples here relate to national heroes from earlier times, and they're the focus of many of the peoples' worship, with rituals which look (to me) pretty similar to those practised in Buddhist temples in Thailand.
In the area surrounding the mausoleum there are a number of other buildings of interest...difficult to interpret the meaning of much of this stuff...the English transcripts aren't always helpful but the architecture and symbolism is interesting.
Click here for some pics (cameras not allowed in the mausoleum)....
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/HoChiMinh?feat=directlink
Saturday, 31 January 2009
Good Afternoon Vietnam!
31 Jan 09
Dear Readers, its been a long time but after just a few hours in Hanoi I felt compelled to kick start the blog!
After an easy time in my mostly familiar haunts in Thailand, Vietnam has come like an electric shock to the trip. It feels like the real Asia.....flying in over paddy fields being worked by coolies with water buffaloes, and touching down on an old concrete runway was a far cry from arriving in Singapore or Bangkok.
The taxi ride from the airport was hilarious, especially once we were in amongst the traffic - my cab had a reverb effect on the horn - especially effective in narrow streets when we were inches from the nearest scooter.
Hanoi's Old Quarter is a bunch of iggledy-piggledy old streets, each one historically occupied by one or more trades. For example, there's a street selling mostly household goods, another with blacksmith's shops selling all sorts of metalware, others with herbs and spices, headstone engravers(!), clothing, shoes etc etc.
Its the first time in 4 months of travelling that I felt like I WANTED to buy some souvenirs - there's all sorts of interesting things available, probably for very little money.
The local currency is the Dong. US Dollars are also widely used. 1 USD = 17000Dong, so you get a lot of Dong for your pound sterling!!
The old streets lead down to the Hoan Kiem Lake - a focal point for social interaction, especially as its the end of the Tet Festival holidays (Vietnam's equivalent of Chinese New Year). It was crazy busy with youngsters on scooters, all sorts of vendors, and families enjoying the warm winter sunshine. There's a quaint little temple on an island - 3000 Dong entry fee - 12pence!
Some pictures here....http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/HanoiDay1?feat=directlink
If this is a foretaste of Vietnam, I'm really looking forward to the coming days and weeks.
Dear Readers, its been a long time but after just a few hours in Hanoi I felt compelled to kick start the blog!
After an easy time in my mostly familiar haunts in Thailand, Vietnam has come like an electric shock to the trip. It feels like the real Asia.....flying in over paddy fields being worked by coolies with water buffaloes, and touching down on an old concrete runway was a far cry from arriving in Singapore or Bangkok.
The taxi ride from the airport was hilarious, especially once we were in amongst the traffic - my cab had a reverb effect on the horn - especially effective in narrow streets when we were inches from the nearest scooter.
Hanoi's Old Quarter is a bunch of iggledy-piggledy old streets, each one historically occupied by one or more trades. For example, there's a street selling mostly household goods, another with blacksmith's shops selling all sorts of metalware, others with herbs and spices, headstone engravers(!), clothing, shoes etc etc.
Its the first time in 4 months of travelling that I felt like I WANTED to buy some souvenirs - there's all sorts of interesting things available, probably for very little money.
The local currency is the Dong. US Dollars are also widely used. 1 USD = 17000Dong, so you get a lot of Dong for your pound sterling!!
The old streets lead down to the Hoan Kiem Lake - a focal point for social interaction, especially as its the end of the Tet Festival holidays (Vietnam's equivalent of Chinese New Year). It was crazy busy with youngsters on scooters, all sorts of vendors, and families enjoying the warm winter sunshine. There's a quaint little temple on an island - 3000 Dong entry fee - 12pence!
Some pictures here....http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/HanoiDay1?feat=directlink
If this is a foretaste of Vietnam, I'm really looking forward to the coming days and weeks.
Friday, 2 January 2009
Sydney to Parramatta
19 Dec 08
Parramatta was the site of the original Government House in the late 1700s. The settlers (convicts and their guards, led by Governor Phillip) had brought limited food with them and the land at Sydney Cove, the original settlement, wasn't very productive for growing spuds and cabbages. Parramatta had more fertile ground so the focal point of efforts to establish the colony moved up river.
Today, Parramatta is a pretty anonymous commercial centre but the 1 hour boat trip from Sydney is great. Good views of the Harbour Bridge, luxury waterfront residences and other historical buildings.
The Government House building is the main point of interest in Parramatta. It was extended by successive Governors and later became a private school before falling into disrepair. Its now managed by the National Trust which offers guided tours of what's probably the oldest colonial building in Oz..?
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/FerryToParramatta?feat=directlink
Parramatta was the site of the original Government House in the late 1700s. The settlers (convicts and their guards, led by Governor Phillip) had brought limited food with them and the land at Sydney Cove, the original settlement, wasn't very productive for growing spuds and cabbages. Parramatta had more fertile ground so the focal point of efforts to establish the colony moved up river.
Today, Parramatta is a pretty anonymous commercial centre but the 1 hour boat trip from Sydney is great. Good views of the Harbour Bridge, luxury waterfront residences and other historical buildings.
The Government House building is the main point of interest in Parramatta. It was extended by successive Governors and later became a private school before falling into disrepair. Its now managed by the National Trust which offers guided tours of what's probably the oldest colonial building in Oz..?
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/FerryToParramatta?feat=directlink
Aussie Icons....Kylie!
The opportunity to see Kylie on stage in Sydney was too good to pass up. With ticket prices equivalent to 5 nights in a YHA, it was a bargain...!?
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/KylieInSydney?feat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/KylieInSydney?feat=directlink
Thursday, 1 January 2009
Great Australian wildlife
Happy New Year!
Just 48 hours to go Down Under - better get the blog up to date...
Here's an Aussie wildlife selection...pics taken along the way, some more wild than others!
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/OzWildlife?feat=directlink
Just 48 hours to go Down Under - better get the blog up to date...
Here's an Aussie wildlife selection...pics taken along the way, some more wild than others!
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/OzWildlife?feat=directlink
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