4-5 Feb
Halong Bay is a four hour drive to the east of Hanoi, and known for its incredible marine landscape - 3000 limestone islands jutting out of the emerald green waters of the Gulf of Tonkin. The local climate means that this geological wonderland is often shrouded by mist which adds to the visual impact. Some of the islands have incredible cave systems too.
I did an overnight trip to Halong Bay, organised by the Kangaroo Cafe (the only western run travel business in Hanoi). They arrange your accommodation on board a beautiful wooden junk, with great food, comfortable cabins and outdoor seating for you to enjoy the scenery. There were 17 guests in our trip, mostly Brits and Aussies so there was plenty of lively discussion and swapping of travellers' tales.
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/HalongBayJunk?feat=directlink
The drive from Hanoi was predictably entertaining - every possible luggage combination on little motorcycles (vegetables, animals, boxes, people etc), a truck doing a 3-point turn back onto the entry sliproad of the "motorway". On the hard shoulder you see ladies selling fresh baguettes and blokes just sitting around watching the traffic.
We also saw a coolbox fall off the back of a bike, spilling its contents of pig meat, innards and bones onto the dirty tarmac...the rider set about scooping it back into the box...yummy!
It was also a great opportunity to see people at work in the fields, planting rice and tending their crops. There was also some industry - brickworks, colieries, a power station and, near Hanoi, some more modern multi-national factories.
Once underway, we cruised past the islands of Halong Bay which are fantastic, and very similar to those I saw in southern Thailand. The thing about Halong is the sheer number of islands, and the fact that they're relatively untouristed.
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/HalongBayScenery?feat=directlink
We moored off one of the islands and visited "Amazing Cave", which has 3 huge chambers. Its like a set from a Disney film. Unfortunately, most of the stalagmites and stalactites have been removed years ago by uneducated souvenir hunters, but the impact of this underground wonderland is still quite astonishing....far bigger than any of the caves I saw in Australia.
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/HalongBayCaves?feat=directlink
On day two, after a peaceful night's sleep on the boat, and an early breakfast, we were off to Titop Island (named after a Russian cosmonaut who came here with Ho Chi Minh) for a hike up 400 steps to the viewpoint. The island also has a nice little sandy beach, although in February its a little chilly for bathing!
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/scuba50/HalongBayTitopIsland?feat=directlink
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